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Savile Row (IPA: /ˈsævɪl/, both vowels short with accent on the first syllable) is a shopping street in Mayfair, central London, famous for its traditional men's bespoke tailoring. The term "bespoke" is understood to have originated in Savile Row when cloth for a suit was said to "be spoken for" by individual customers.^[1] The short street is termed the "golden mile of tailoring",^[2] where customers have included Winston Churchill, Lord Nelson, Prince Charles, Muhammad Ali Jinnah, and Napoleon III.^[3]

Savile Row runs parallel to Regent Street between Conduit Street at the northern end and Vigo Street at the southern. Linking roads include Burlington Place, Clifford Street and Burlington Gardens.

The upper floors of its eighteenth-century houses are home to galleries, such as the Matthew Bown Gallery and Laurent Delaye Gallery, both at №11 Savile Row.

Contents 1 History 2 Tailors on Savile Row 2.1 Stowers Bespoke 2.2 Steed Bespoke Tailors 2.3 Davies and Son 2.4 Gieves & Hawkes 2.5 Hardy Amies 2.6 Henry Poole & Co 2.7 Norton & Sons 2.8 Nutters of Savile Row 2.9 Ozwald Boateng 2.10 Other tailors 2.11 Independent tailors / clothing companies 3 Neighbouring tailors 3.1 Anderson & Sheppard 3.2 Steven Hitchcock 4 Savile Row Bespoke Association 5 The Beatles 6 Popular culture 7 References 8 See also 9 External links

[edit] History

Savile Row was built between 1731 and 1735 as part of the development of the Burlington Estate, and is named after Lady Dorothy Savile, wife of the 3rd Earl of Burlington. It originally ran from Burlington Gardens (then Vigo Lane) to Boyle Street, with houses only on the east side, but in 1937–8 it extended to Conduit Street, and in the 19th century houses were built on the west side.^[4] The original architectural plan is believed to have been drawn up by Colen Campbell, though Henry Flitcroft appears to have been the main architect of the street, under the supervision of Daniel Garrett, while Nos 1 and 22–23 Savile Row were designed by William Kent,^[5] who lived next door in No 2.^[6] Dr Livingstone was laid out in state in No 1, when it was the headquarters of the Royal Geographical Society, before being buried in Westminster Abbey.^[7]

Initially, the street was occupied by military officers and their wives; William Pitt the Younger was an early resident. Irish-born playwright and MP, Richard Brinsley Sheridan lived at 17 Savile Row for a short time before his death in 1816.

During the 1800s, the gentry became concerned with neat dress, and Beau Brummell epitomised the well-dressed man. He patronised the tailors congregated on the Burlington Estate, notably around Cork Street, and by 1803 some were occupying premises in Savile Row. None of those original tailors survive today.

In 1846, Henry Poole is credited as being the 'Founder of Savile Row' after opening a second entrance to his late father's tailoring premises at № 32 Savile Row;^[3] however, there were tailors on the Row long before Poole's.

In 1969, Nutters of Savile Row modernised the style and approach of the traditional tailors; a modernisation which continued in the 1990s with the arrival of designers like Richard James and Ozwald Boateng.

With increasing rents and criticisms from Giorgio Armani of falling behind the times, the number of tailors on Savile Row declined to just 19 in 2006.^[1] Some tailors had expressed concern in 2005 that an increase in commercial development in the area could lead to the death of the business locally, as tailors — many of whom traditionally manufacture their suits on the premises, in basement studios — could be priced out of the local property market.^[8][9] The Savile Row Bespoke Association was created to address these problems, and to encourage training, organise events and other initiatives. There is frustration among many remaining that even some established British brands use the 'Savile Row' designation on imported clothes.

But despite these problems, the Row continues to be a mecca for men around the world who want the very best of tailoring, and it also continues to attract new recruits. Some of these may be 'old' recruits, in that they have had long experience in Savile Row before starting their own businesses (see Tailors, below), while others are younger newcomers attracted by its elegance and craftsmanship.

http://www.savilerow-style.com is the online website magazine which carries news of these and other developments, covering not just the Row itself but adjacent roads, where other fine tailors are housed. This is what used to be referred to as the 'Golden Mile', and neighbouring Soho is also an important adjunct, where many of the outworkers that the Row relies upon are based.

[edit] Tailors on Savile Row

Tailors in Savile Row include:

[edit] Stowers Bespoke

Stowers Bespoke is the latest addition to Saville Row tailoring. Established in 2006 by Ray Stowers former head of bespoke at Gieves & Hawkes for 25 years, Stowers Bespoke was created to reverse the trend in the modern market to mass produce garments in the far east sacrificing quality for margins. As well as producing their bespoke in their work rooms on Saville Row they manufacture their ready to wear suits, accessories and made to measure suits in England.

Originally working from 13 Old Burlington Street in the spring of 2007 Stowers Bespoke was the lead brand when Liberty launched their formal wear room making Liberty the only department store to offer in-house bespoke tailoring.

In September 2008 Stowers Bespoke purchased an established tailors called James Levett and is in the process of making their shop at 13 Savile Row the Stowers Bespoke flagship store.

^[10]

[edit] Steed Bespoke Tailors

Established in January 1995 and located at № 12 Savile Row, Steed gained a reputation as one of Savile Row’s finest tailors, offering clients a soft understated elegance.

Edwin DeBoise, whose father and brother are both tailors, trained at the London College of Fashion and then worked under the legendary cutter Edward Sexton (Tommy Nutter), followed by seven years at Anderson & Sheppard before founding Steed.

January 2002 was Steed’s eighth year in business and one which also saw Edwin taking full control of the company after an amicable split with his then business partner Thomas Mahon (of English Cut) with whom he started the company back in 1995.

Recently in September 2008, Edwin’s eldest son Matthew DeBoise joined the company and is currently learning the trade, under his father.

Edwin’s schedule includes at least 4 visits to the USA each year in order to cater for his expanding overseas client base. More details can be found on Steed’s web site.^[11]

Steed’s reputation has resulted in features for such publications as GQ and American Express Departures Magazine.

[edit] Davies and Son

Davies and Son is an independent tailor at № 38 Savile Row. The firm was established by George Davies in 1803 on Hanover Street, moving onto Savile Row in 1986.^[12]

Davies and Sons made the original uniforms for Sir Robert Peel's police force. Other customers include: Calvin Klein, Michael Jackson, Douglas Fairbanks Jr, Clark Gable, and U.S. President Harry S. Truman.^[12]

[edit] Gieves & Hawkes

Gieves & Hawkes is a gentleman's tailor located at №1 Savile Row. It is a traditional British bespoke tailor, holds a number of Royal Warrants,^[13] and provides ready-to-wear clothes, as well as bespoke and military tailoring. There are various Gieves & Hawkes shops and concessions around the UK and in several other countries.

The business dates from the late 18th century, and was formed by the merger of two separate businesses, Gieves (founded 1785) and Hawkes (founded 1771).^[14]

[edit] Hardy Amies

Hardy Amies is a fashion house at №14 Savile Row set up by English dressmaker Sir Edwin Hardy Amies (17 July 1909 - 5 March 2003) in 1946.

Amies had been educated at Brentwood School, Essex,^[15] and was a Lieutenant Colonel in the intelligence service during the Second World War.^[16]

Amies was awarded a Royal Warrant by Queen Elizabeth II as her official dressmaker in 1955 which he continued to be until 1990. He was knighted in 1989. Amies also designed costumes for films, including 2001: A Space Odyssey.^[17]

Amies retired in May 2001 and the business was sold to corporate investors. In November 2008 the Hardy Amies brand was acquired by Fung Capital, the private investment arm of Victor and William Fung who together control the Li & Fung group

LGBT fashion designers

[edit] Henry Poole & Co

Henry Poole & Co is a gentleman's bespoke tailor located at №15 Savile Row.^[2] The acknowledged 'Founders of Savile Row' and creators of the Tuxedo, the company has remained a family-run business since their establishment in 1806. They opened first in Brunswick Square, in 1806, originally specialising in military tailoring, with particular merit at the time of the Battle of Waterloo. Their business moved to Savile Row in 1846, following the death of founder James Poole.^{[18] [19]}

[edit] Norton & Sons

Norton & Sons is a gentleman's bespoke tailor located at №16 Savile Row. Established in the city of London in 1821 the firm moved to Savile Row in the middle of the nineteenth century. In the 1960s Norton's incorporated the other Savile Row firm of J. Hoare & E. Tautz. The firm has always boasted strong connections with London's young and fashionable and were tailors to the young Winston Churchill.^[20] and Sir Hardy Amies^[21].

[edit] Nutters of Savile Row

Nutters of Savile Row is a modern Savile Row tailors which opened on Valentine's Day 1969, backed by Cilla Black and Peter Brown. Nutters was the first shop on Savile Row to pioneer 'open windows' and had bold displays created by the then unknown Simon Doonan;^[22] as such the shop modernised the perception of Savile Row. Nutters of Savile Row dressed the entire social spectrum from the Duke of Bedford and Lord Montagu to Mick and Bianca Jagger and The Beatles.

The shop's designers were Tommy Nutter and Edward Sexton.

Tommy Nutter (1943, Wales - August 18, 1992) was trained in traditional tailoring on Savile Row before setting up Nutters. Nutter's designs include Bianca Jagger's wedding suit, the costumes for the 1989 Batman film including those worn by Jack Nicholson, and three of the suits worn by The Beatles on the front cover of Abbey Road.^{[23] [24] [25]}

[edit] Ozwald Boateng

Ozwald Boateng OBE is a modern bespoke tailors at №12a Savile Row founded by Ozwald Boateng (OBE) who sees himself as both tailor and a designer, so coining the term 'bespoke couturier'.^[26] There is also a ready-to-wear outlet on Vigo Lane.

Born in Ghana in the late 1960s and brought up in north London,^[27] Boateng started tailoring at age 16, selling his mother's designs on Portobello Road; by twenty three he had set himself up full-time in business. He began making bespoke suits in 1990, and is credited with introducing Savile Row tailoring to a new generation. The first tailor to stage a catwalk show in Paris, Boateng's many clients include Will Smith, Jamie Foxx, Samuel L. Jackson, Russell Crowe, Keanu Reeves, and Mick Jagger.^[28]

He was appointed creative director of Givenchy menswear in 2003.^[29]

On June 22, 2006, the Sundance Channel began airing a reality television series called House of Boateng which follows Boateng's efforts to launch his Bespoke Couture line in the United States, was Produced by Robert Redford and Ben Silverman, created by Varon Bonicos and Todd Cohen.

Boateng lives with his wife and two children in central London, and was recently named one of the 100 Great Black Britons by The Voice and the Greater London Authority.

[edit] Other tailors

• Stowers Bespoke ^[10] (№13)
• Steed Bespoke Tailors ^[11] (№12)
• Comelie London^[30] (№12)
• Kilgour (№8)^[31]
• Thomas Mahon^[32] (№12)
• Jasper Littman^[33] (№9)
• Dege & Skinner (№10)
• H. Huntsman est. 1849 (№11)
• Richard Anderson (№13)
• Maurice Sedwell^[34] (№19)
• Welsh and Jefferies (№20)
• Holland & Sherry est. 1836 (№9/10)
• Richard James est. 1992 (№29)
• Gary Anderson (№34/35)
• James and James was originally in Old Burlington Street, having been founded by Sven James who came to London in the 1920s to work for Frederick Scholte. James and James have now joined with Davies & Son.^[35]
• Alexandre at №39 Savile Row is owned by British Menswear Brands.^[36]
• William Westmancott^[37] (№12)

[edit] Independent tailors / clothing companies

The Savile Row Shirt Company and Ede and Ravenscroft

Est. 1689 and located at 8 Burlington Gardens besides the Abercrombie & Fitch flagship.

Clements & Church

^[38] This is a traditional gentleman's tailoring firm offering off the peg, made to measure and hand made garments.

Evisu

This is Japanese retailer found on Savile Row under the shop name "Saburo".

[edit] Neighbouring tailors

Savile Row tailors who do not have premises on Savile Row:

[edit] Anderson & Sheppard

Anderson & Sheppard^[39] is a traditional tailor founded in 1906 at №30 Savile Row. The fluid style of cutter Frederick Scholte was the distinguishing feature of the house style, which became known as the "London cut". A high small armhole with a generous upper sleeve permits the jacket to remain close to the neck while freeing the arm to move with comfort.^[40]

Customers have included Fred Astaire, Gary Cooper, Marlene Dietrich, Cecil Beaton, Laurence Olivier, Noel Coward, Ralph Fiennes, Manolo Blahnik and Prince Charles. In 2004, Tom Ford became a customer of the firm, commissioning suits that would later appear in a 10 page ‘W’ magazine photo shoot.^[41]

Anderson & Sheppard moved off Savile Row to 32 Old Burlington Street in March 2005.

[edit] Steven Hitchcock

Steven Hitchcock^[42] is an independent Savile Row Tailor. Steven has been working in Savile Row since he was 16 years of age serving his apprenticeship with Anderson and Sheppard, the first 4 years of which as a coatmaker, followed by 5 years of cutting and fitting.

Tailoring is very much in Steven's blood. His parents have both worked on Savile Row, with Steven's father working for over 40 years at Anderson and Sheppard.

The method of tailoring used by Steven is Soft Tailoring, a style he learnt during his time with Anderson and Sheppard. It prefers a softer shoulder and jacket with a higher cut arm hold, all for comfort and style.

Steven Hitchcock has been sharing premises of tailors Denman and Goddard^[43] at 13 New Burlington Street since 2003.

[edit] Savile Row Bespoke Association

Founded in 2004, the aim of the Savile Row Bespoke Association is to protect and to develop the art of bespoke tailoring as practised in the Row and the surrounding streets.^[44] This cluster of excellence has made a contribution to London and the British image which has been formally recognised by the City of Westminster in a recent study.

Mark Henderson, chief executive of Gieves & Hawkes is the chairman of the SRB, who are based at No. 1 Savile Row.

The member tailors are: Anderson & Sheppard, Davies & Sons, Dege & Skinner, Gieves & Hawkes, Hardy Amies, Henry Poole & Co, H.Huntsman & Sons, Meyer and Mortimer, Norton & Sons, Ozwald Boateng, Richard Anderson and Richard James.^[45]

In 2007 Anthony J Hewitt MD, Ravi Tailor left Savile Row to work from L.G. Wilkinson on St George's Street, after a brief unhappy marriage between Japanese jeans brand Evisu at number 9. This meant they no longer qualified as Savile Row bespoke and therefore had to leave the SRB.

[edit] The Beatles

The offices of The Beatles' Apple Corps were at 3 Savile Row; The Beatles, Badfinger, Mary Hopkin and others recorded in the Apple Studios in the basement. The Beatles' final, live performance was on the roof, on 30 January 1969. That "Rooftop Concert" concludes the documentary film Let It Be.

[edit] Popular culture

• №7 Savile Row was the London address of Phileas Fogg, protagonist of Jules Verne's classic adventure novel Around the World in 80 Days.
• In Japanese, one word for suit is "sebiro" (背広), purportedly a corruption of "Savile Row."^[46]
• Saville Row appears in the Monopoly Here and Now edition, a mis-spelling of the correct name.
• Savile Row is featured as venue in the music video game Rock Band
• Savile Row suits are mentioned in The Monochrome Set's song "Jet Set Junta".
• Savile Row is mentioned in the song "You're Never Fully Dressed Without a Smile" in the hit musical Annie.

An urban legend states the character of James Bond wears Savile Row, though he did not even wear these in Ian Fleming's novels, and he did not even wear them himself. The real Bond film tailors were; Anthony Sinclair (1962 – 1965); Dimi Major (1969); Cyril Castle (1973 – 1979); Douglas Hayward (1981 – 1985); Brioni (1995 – 2006); Tom Ford (2008); and Turnbull & Asser, who made the shirts for the Connery, Brosnan and Craig eras.^[47] In the 1962 movie "Dr. No," the first in the James Bond series, CIA agent Felix Leiter asks Bond where he was fitted for his Walther PPK, and Bond responds, "My tailor, in Savile Row."

[edit] References

[edit] See also

• Jermyn Street

[edit] External links

• Savile Row Bespoke Association official website
• http://www.savilerow-style.com magazine
• Savile Row
• Map of the shops on The Row
• The Battle for Savile Row, Business Week
• http://www.englishcut.com/archives/000029.html
• "Interactive timeline of couture houses and couturier biographies". Victoria and Albert Museum. http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/1486_couture/explore.php. 
• Savile Row's finest video

Coordinates: 51°30′41″N 0°08′27″W / 51.511301°N 0.140853°W / 51.511301; -0.140853