Wagashi

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Jump to: navigation, search
Sasayamashi Daihukudo
A selection of wagashi to be served during a Japanese tea ceremony.

Wagashi (和菓子 ?) is a traditional Japanese confectionery which is often served with tea, especially the types made of mochi, azuki bean paste, and fruits.

Wagashi is typically made from natural based (mainly plant) ingredients. The names used for wagashi commonly fit a formula—a natural beauty and a word from ancient literature; they are thus often written with hyōgaiji (kanji that are not commonly used or known), and are glossed with furigana.

Generally, confectioneries that were introduced from the West after the Meiji Restoration (1868) are not considered wagashi. Most sorts of Okinawan confectionery and those originating in Europe or China that use ingredients alien to traditional Japanese cuisine, e.g., kasutera, are only rarely referred to as wagashi.

Contents

[edit] History

[edit] Ancient

In ancient Japan, people ate fruits and nuts as confectionery and sweets, to supplement nutrition in addition to grain, such as rice, wheat and millet. In an excavation of a Jōmon period archeological site, the carbonized remains of what appeared to be baked cookies made from chestnut powder were discovered.

According to the Kojiki, Emperor Suinin ordered Tajima-mori to bring Tokijiku-no-Kagu-no-Konomi (登岐士玖能迦玖能木實 a kind of orange?) from the Eternal Land. 10 years later, Tajima-mori returned with the orange, but Emperor Suinin was already dead. Tajima-mori mourned since he could not carry out his mission and took his own life.[1] By tradition, Tajima-mori is worshiped as spirit like a patron saint among confectionery craftsmen.

Grain processing technology evolved through rice cultivation. People began to produce a parched rice (yaigome), sun-dried cooked rice (hoshi-ii), rice flour, dumpling (dango), mochi, ame (made of saccharified rice malt) and so on. Thus, ancient people's confectionery was very simple.

[edit] Tang confectionery

Japan sent envoys to the Sui and Tang Dynasty from the Asuka period to the beginning of the Heian period. They brought back eight Tang confectioneries (唐菓子 Tō-gashi or kara-kudamono?) and 14 grain flour-based confectioneries (果餅 ?) and the recipes. The Tang confectioneries were kneaded wheat flour and rice flour, and fried in oil. These were more advanced than the confectionery technology of Japan in those days. They were served at the Imperial Court and offered to Shintoist and Buddhist deities. According to one view, a dark brown sugar was also brought back from China by Jianzhen who came to Japan from the Tang in this period. However, since sugar-refining technology was not introduced to Japan at this point, the sugar was very rare and was treasured like a medicine. Generally, the syrup that resulted from boiling the sap of Grape ivy down (甘葛煎 amazura-sen?) was used as a sweetener at this time.

During this period, many diaries and tales were written among upper class and aristocrats. The Tale of Genji, The Pillow Book and The Diary of Izumi Shikibu have some episodes about confectionery. Moreover, the records manifesting a life situation also increased with improvement of a government institution.[clarification needed] They are how we know confectionery culture of those days.

  • Tang confectioneries
    • Major eights: Baishi, Danki, Hichira, Kakko, Keishin, Tensei, Tōshi and Tsuishi.
    • Others: Buto, Fuzuku, Heidan, Hōtō (According to one theory, it is an archetype of Hōtō), Kakunawa, Konton, Magari, Mugikata and Sakuhei.
  • Aozashi: It is made of parched green wheat flour and twisted like a thread.
  • Kezurihi: Shaved ice flavored with amazura-sen syrup. It is called kakigori today.
  • Some mochi-based confectioneries. For example:
    • Tsubaki mochii: A mochi flavored with amazura-sen syrup.
    • Inoko mochii: A mochi shaped as a wild boar piglet.

[edit] Introduction of tea

The first introduction of tea in Japan is unclear. In 729, Emperor Shōmu held a ritual of the tea party after sutra recitation. In 815, Emperor Saga was given a cup of tea by the high priest. During the Heian period it seems that the customs of tea drinking had not been established outside of Temples and Buddhism, and had not progressed into domestic culture. Therefore, the standard introduction is in 1191, when the famous Zen priest Eisai brought back tea seeds to Kyoto. Then, confectionery was improved as a snack or a light meal to accompany tea.

In 1349, Rin Jōin (林淨因 ?) who came from Yuan to Japan with a Zen priest. He lived in Nara, and sold a steamed filled dumplings. However, since meat eating was a taboo in Japan then, azuki bean paste sweetened with honeysuckle syrup, was used as a replacement filling. This was very popular and was presented to the Imperial Court repeatedly. Then, Rin married and was naturalized in Japan. The manjū store which he opened is still operating in Tokyo as Shiose Sō-honke (塩瀬総本家 ?). Moreover, from 1949, Rin was worshiped as ancestor of manjū in Hayashi shrine in Nara.

[edit] Nanban confectionery

In 1543, Portuguese were shipwrecked on Tanegashima Isle. Some European confectioneries became popular in Japan during the Nanban trade. These were referred to as nanban-gashi (南蛮菓子 ?), or "Wagashi with a new wind".

In Japan, cattle are not common, therefore non-dairy based confectionery was more popular, in particular castella, kompeito, aruheitō, karumera, keiran sōmen, bōro and bisukauto.

[edit] Edo period

During the Edo period, the production of sugarcane in Okinawa became highly productive, and low quality brown sugar as well as heavily processed white sugar became widely available. A type of sugar, wasanbon was perfected in this period and is still used exclusively to make wagashi. Wagashi was a popular gift between samurai, in significance much like a good wine. Wagashi is served as part of a Japanese tea ceremony, and serving a good seasonal wagashi shows one's educational background.

[edit] In modern days

[edit] Types of wagashi

Seiōbo, a peach-shaped wagashi
  • Anmitsu: chilled gelatinous cubes (kanten) with fruit.
  • Amanattō: simmered azuki beans or other beans with sugar, and dried. Amanattō and nattō are not related although the names are similar
  • Botamochi: a sweet rice ball wrapped with anko (or an, thick azuki bean paste).
  • Daifuku: general term for mochi (pounded sweet rice) stuffed with anko.
  • Dango: a small, sticky sweet mochi, commonly skewered on a stick.
  • Hanabiramochi: a flat red and white sweet mochi wrapped around anko and a strip of candied gobo (burdock).
  • Ikinari dango: a steamed bun with chunks of sweet potato in the dough, with anko in the center. It is a local confectionery in Kumamoto.
  • Imagawayaki (also kaitenyaki and so on): anko surrounded in a disc of fried dough covering.
  • Kusa mochi: "grass mochi", a sweet mochi infused with Japanese mugwort (yomogi), surrounding a center of anko.
  • Kuri hōka (栗宝華 ?) a chestnut wrapped in yōkan[2][3]
  • Kuri kinton: a sweetened mixture of boiled and mashed chestnuts.
  • Manjū: steamed cakes of an surrounded by a flour mixture, available in many shapes such as peaches, rabbits, and matsutake (松茸) mushrooms.
  • Matsunoyuki: "the snow on the pine", a sweetened mochi in the shape of a pine tree, sprinkled with ground sugar.
  • Monaka: a center of anko sandwiched between two delicate and crispy sweet rice crackers.
External images
Ofukuimo[4]
Ofukuimo[5]
  • Ofukuimo (お馥芋 ?): sponge cake filled with sweet potato paste
  • Oshiruko (also zenzai): a hot dessert made from anko in a liquid, soup form, with small mochi floating in it.
  • Rakugan: a small, very solid and sweet cake which is made of rice flour and mizuame.
  • Sakuramochi: a rice cake filled with anko and wrapped in a pickled cherry leaf.
External images
Shimizukage[6]
Shimizukage[7]
  • Shimizukage (清水かげ ?): a bean jelly (a kind of yōkan); literally, shimizu means "spring water"
  • Taiyaki: like a kaitenyaki, a core of anko surrounded by a fried dough covering, but shaped like a fish.
  • Uirō: a steamed cake made of rice flour and sugar, similar to mochi.
  • Warabimochi: a wagashi traditionally made from warabi and served with kinako and kuromitsu
  • Yatsuhashi: thin sheets of gyūhi (sweetened mochi), available in different flavors, like cinnamon, and occasionally folded in a triangle around a ball of red anko.
  • Yōkan: one of the oldest wagashi, a solid block of anko, hardened with agar and additional sugar.

[edit] Classifications / Categories

A Chaya or traditional Japanese teahouse, offers tea and wagashi. This example is in Nara Park

Wagashi are classified according to the production method and moisture content. Moisture content is very important since it affects the best-before date.

  • Namagashi (生菓子 ?) (wet confectionery)—contains 30% or more moisture.
    • Jō namagashi (上生菓子 ?), very soft and delicate seasonally varying namagashi, in various, often elaborate, shapes and colors, often reflecting seasonal plants. Some stores will have many dozens over the course of a year.[8] (examples: [3] [4])
    • Mochi mono (もち物 ?)
    • Mushi mono (蒸し物 ?)
    • Yaki mono (焼き物 ?)
      • Hiranabe mono (平なべ物 ?)
      • Ōbun mono (オーブン物 ?)
    • Nagashi mono (流し物 ?)
    • Neri mono (練り物 ?)
    • Age mono (揚げ物 ?)
  • Han namagashi (半生菓子 ?) (half-wet confectionery)—contains 10%–30% moisture.
    • An mono (あん物 ?)
    • Oka mono (おか物 ?)
    • Yaki mono (焼き物 ?)
      • Hiranabe mono (平なべ物 ?)
      • Ōbun mono (オーブン物 ?)
    • Nagashi mono (流し物 ?)
    • Neri mono (練り物 ?)
  • Higashi (干菓子 ?) (dry confectionery)—contains 10% or less moisture.
    • Uchi mono (打ち物 ?)
    • Oshi mono (押し物 ?)
    • Kake mono (掛け物 ?)
    • Yaki mono (焼き物 ?)
    • Ame mono (あめ物 ?)

[edit] Availability

Wagashi is widely available in Japan, but quite rare outside it.

  • Minamoto Kitchoan (源 吉兆庵 ?)
    Has a varied selection, and stores in New York City (shipping throughout the US), London (shipping throughout Europe), and Singapore, in addition to Japan.
  • Toraya (とらや ?)
    Has a full Paris store, stores in Japan, and sells a limited selection (yōkan only) at New York stores.
  • Fugetsu-do
    Family owned and operated in the USA, since 1903, Fugetsu-do now ships anywhere in the USA.

[edit] Wagashi in fiction

[edit] See also

[edit] References

  1. ^ ^  Chamberlain, B.H. (1882–1919) The Kojiki - translated by Basil Hall Chamberlain Public Domain (Published before copyright): SECT. LXXIV.--EMPEROR SUI-NIN.
  2. ^ Fuga assortment at Minamoto Kitchoan
  3. ^ Review of Minamoto Kitchoan's kuri hōka (Japanese)
  4. ^ お馥芋 at Minamoto Kitchoan
  5. ^ [1]
  6. ^ [2]
  7. ^ From Minamoto Kitchoan: Japanese Wagashi- The Ultimate Intersection of Food and Art
  8. ^ http://www2.aia.pref.aichi.jp/voice/no7/kitchen1.html
  • Aoki, Naomi (2000). 図説 和菓子の今昔 Zusetsu wagashi no konjyaku. 株式会社淡交社 Tankosha Publishing Co.,Ltd. ISBN 978-4473017628. 

[edit] External links

Personal tools